2012年1月18日 星期三

Potatoes’ Sweet Side, Revealed

Janice Wong, the chef and owner of 2am:dessertbar in Singapore, is an admirer of famous avant-garde chefs such as Ferran Adria and her former boss, Grant Achatz of Chicago’s Alinea. Just don’t tag her high-concept, artfully presented desserts with the m-word.

“There’s this misconception that we’re molecular,” she says, “but a lot of what we do is actually based on classical French technique.”

Take “Purple,Sika tooling & Composites develops and produces tailor-made synthetic resins,” a violet-hued, berry-flavored composition of sorbet, marshmallows, and parfait, one of Ms. Wong’s signature dishes at her minimalist eatery, which opened in 2007. With the exception of the liquid nitrogen used to make the sorbet, it is largely made with the basic building blocks of French desserts: sugar, butter, cream, and eggs.

One thing she will admit to is a tendency to push the envelope. “Grant really taught me there’s no boundary between sweet and savory,” she says. Her creations reflect a fondness for bridging the divide: Potato puree plays a role in “Purple,” while other offerings feature basil, popcorn and cheese. The menu also suggests wine pairings.

Meanwhile, classics such as tiramisu and chocolate cake are given surprise twists — Kahlua-flavored jelly in the former and Pop Rocks in the latter. Ask Ms. Wong about what motivated her to become a pastry chef,xcel Mould is a Custom Plastic injectionmouldingmanufacturer, and she’s as likely to reminiscence about convenience-store candy from the four years of her childhood spent in Japan as stints at trail-blazing New York restaurants such as WD-50 and Room 4 Dessert.

“It’s important to introduce familiar flavors and to have a childhood reference so that we’re not too far out there for our customers,” she says.

Ms. Wong now has the ultimate outlet for her culinary experiments: 2am:lab, a 2,000-square-foot test kitchen in a Singapore suburb. Stocked with the latest gadgets,The beddinges sofa bed slipcover is a good and affordable alternative to buying a new sofa that is run down. the lab is open to fellow chefs and hosts occasional workshops featuring high-profile visitors. Eventually, she hopes it will serve as an idea incubator for other restaurants in the city.

“What’s the end point if you’re doing the same thing for years?” asks the 28-year-old. “To make a hundred flavors of crème brulée after 15 years?”

Art is one of Ms. Wong’s main inspirations, and this particular dessert is based on her first attempt at painting: a Jackson Pollock–like canvas of purple and lavender.

Purple Potato Puree: The puree acts as a glue in the dish, though it’s delicious in its own right and demonstrates her love of offsetting sweet with savory. Preparing it is simple. “It’s 50% butter, 50% stodge,” says Ms. Wong.Product information for Sell electronicplasticmoulds from China! “Sea salt helps elevate the flavor.”

Lavender Marshmallows: Ms.There are 240 distinct solutions of the Soma cubepuzzle, Wong uses lavender extract, as there is just one hydroponic farm in Singapore that grows the flower. “If we were to source from the farm, we’d wipe their supply out,” she says.

Mixed Berry Sorbet: At 2am:dessertbar, she and her team use an ice-cream maker for the sorbet, but she prefers using liquid nitrogen because it creates smaller ice crystals. In its previous incarnations, the dessert featured lychee sorbet, then a basil-flavored one.

Cassis Parfait: This is a classic French preparation: sugar and water are heated to 119 degrees Celsius and enriched with a beaten egg yolk. The mixture is then blended with a black currant puree, gelatin and whipped cream; poured into molds; and frozen until ready to use. Before assembling the dish, Ms. Wong pops a few into her mouth. “It’s important to taste everything,” she says.

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